Lark Hill Grüner Veltliner 2013

I’ve been following this wine since its inception, and reviews for previous vintages can be found here: 2012, 2011, 2010.

I’ve got this open next to the 2013 Hahndorf Hill Grüner, and they are totally different wines. The HH is delicate and Riesling-like. This Lark Hill GV is rich and intense, but with the variety’s natural acidity, it is still crisp and light.

You can expect aromas of baked apples, white pepper, jasmine and pear. The palate is oily and viscous, thick with flavour and cut by gentle acidity. Some apricot, ginger and nutmeg spice emerges. Feels like a bit of residual sugar is at work.

Whilst I do like the racy but not thin styles of Grüner Veltliner, it’s so good to see an Australian alternative with this much character, texture and intensity. The quality is immediately apparent, and it’s got the balance that the 2012 somewhat lacked. Quite brilliant.

Outstanding / 94 points

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Price: $40

Source: Sample

Hahndorf Hill ‘GRU’ Grüner Veltliner 2013

Previous vintages: 2012 and 2011

Delicate nose that suggests a myriad of apples – green and red apples, and the Champoo apple, which, incidentally, is currently available at my local farmers’ market. Other than that, a hint of slate and unripe pear.

It has both lingering weight and the quick energy of acidity. Some tannins are noticeable as well right up front.  The palate introduces puckering lime to a continued mineral accord. Certainly a good wine for lovers of South Australian Riesling.

I’m trying to decide if I like this vintage better than the 2011. Hard call, as I rated that Excellent – Outstanding (which may be been a slighty inflated score). Anyway, it’s a prime example of Grüner and I love drinking it.

Excellent / 92 points

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Price: $28

Source: Sample

K1 By Geoff Hardy Grüner Veltliner 2012

I wonder if anyone has personalised numberplates that say GRUNER. I’m sure it’d be a thing in Melbourne or Sydney. In Perth, you’re more likely to see EEBEEE or PLAYGIRL69. Anyways.

A really muted nose on this one, and perhaps some reduction. I’d probably think I was drinking a Riesling if I didn’t already have my hopes up for tasting a new GV. It’s hard to pick any characters distinctly. Perhaps just a vague vegetal tone.

There’s thankfully more action on the palate with lemon juice, watery cucumber and just a hint of spice. Mineral length – definitely some flintiness to close with, fading into what I guess you could say was pepper.  

Not a great example of the variety but its neutrality works okay with food. It’s worth noting that I have some doubts about this particular bottle being a good specimen. Other reviews hint at a tropical fruit aroma which is certainly missing here. I want to see what Geoff Hardy does with this wine in future vintages, for sure. If, like myself, you’re a fan of the variety, have a listen to this podcast on Grüner Veltliner from Intrepid Wino.

Average / 87 points

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Price: $27

Source: Tasting

Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner ‘Am Berg’ 2011

Begins with talc, apple juice, dill and clean vegetable aromas (celery, zucchini, squash). Definitely ‘vegetable’ and not ‘vegetal’. As it warms up, some white pepper spice comes out. To taste, more pepper, as well as radish, lime and green apple. Pure and refreshing, with just a slight spicy tickle on the back of the throat. Some texture as per the varietal, but it’s not the wine’s most distinctive feature.

Acidity and spice lends itself to food. I’m thinking many vegetarian dishes – those with spice and those with raw or still crunchy veg. Should be equally good with white fish topped with dill. Damn good wine, simply.

Very Good – Excellent  / 91 points

Source: Retail

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Price: $28

Hahndorf Hill ‘Gru’ Grüner Veltliner 2012

Those who read this blog will know that I’m a big fan of the Austrian grape Grüner Veltliner and have posted notes on quite a few.

I think I preferred the 2011 vintage of this wine, but they’re different beasts. This release will perhaps be more interesting with some short term bottle age.

It’s looking better on day two. A less defined nose than the 2011; there’s certainly some apple and mineral aspects, but not as much complexity for me. More can be picked up on the palate, and this is where the wine’s strengths lie. Pear fruit, and then peppery daikon radish and even carrot (parsnip less so). Grüner’s vegetal side is definitely present, but it seems more closed and shielded than I’d prefer. A touch of flint comes through on the finish, along with some further white pepper.

Certainly an impressive wine, though given how much I enjoyed the previous vintage, it’s hard to not compare. If the wine decides to unfold, then it’s possible that it will be great. I’m just not that sure at this stage.

I like to think of GV as a good wine for salads (think radish and rocket). Some white meat or Camembert too… or all of the above… Coincidentally, I had it with chicken schnitzel and cabbage, and it unsurprisingly worked well.

I’d be happy to buy it and think it’s a smart example of Grüner, regardless of region. I have my fingers crossed and a good feeling about this one.

Very Good.

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Price: $28

Source: Sample

Lark Hill Grüner Veltliner 2012

 

 

The third vintage of this wine that I’ve tasted (and reviewed). It’s a difficult one for me, because it’s seemingly more complex and varietal than previous releases, however it does lack some acidity.

Opens with a nice note of jasmine (which a friend picked up and I didn’t notice at first). With the 2010 vintage, I’d noted ‘flower nectar’. Its core aromas are of nashi pear, nutmeg and leafy salad greens. A pulpy, pear nectar like texture and thickness to the palate, which is dotted with white pepper and earthy celeriac notes. It has length, but doesn’t finish so cleanly without the balance of acidity of previous vintages. A prickle of warm pepper returns after swallowing the wine.

Delicious with salt and pepper squid (I can confirm this!).

Grüner is such a brilliant variety and Lark Hill always do it justice. My criticism of the acidity shouldn’t stop you from seeking out this wine.

Very Good.

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Source: Sample

Price: $40

Schloss Gobelsburg ‘Gobelsburger Lössterrassen’ Grüner Veltliner 2009

 

 

Loess terraces – ‘Lössterrassen’ – are chalky terraces found across many sites in the Kamptal region. Imported by Enoteca Sydney.

The wine is not about complexity or unravelling mysteries. It’s comprised of honesty and purity – freshly cut pear, radish, mineral and earthy root vegetables. Each element is reasonably easy to spot, and simultaneously, the wine is easy (and pleasant) to drink. There’s a tense but natural acidity that flows amongst peppery vegetal notes, bath salt minerality, and fresh pear juice.

Whilst it’s unlikely to be the best example of Grüner Veltliner out there, it’s so good that it almost makes you want to not bother buying any others. Straight to the top of my [growing] GV list. Anyone who appreciates pristine, mineral-driven whites will love this. My rating is admittedly biased due to my love for the grape, but let’s just say it’s a 96 on the Halliday Scale…

 

Outstanding

Price: $30

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Source: Retail

Pichler-Krutzler ‘Frauengärten’ Grüner Veltliner 2010

 

Cloudy whites are apparently the theme for tonight. Although, I wasn’t so much expecting this one to be. I do like the looming bottle image, so I made it extra-large.

Unexpectedly cloudy and milky like a cataract. Like a Sauvignon Blanc, it’s grassy and shows an edge of pawpaw. A crunch of green apple helps bring it back to GV territory, though it doesn’t show a lot of spice. Perhaps the slightest hint of pepper and celery, but you wouldn’t see it unless you knew the variety. I do like the cidery finish.

Although it’s a pure and clean wine, it lacks the texture and varietal nature that I love about this grape. There are better GVs for the price. Grüner for the Sauv Blanc drinker.

Average – Good.

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Source: Retail

Jesse’s Top 10 Wines of 2011

 

 

2011 has been a very productive year for me and for this blog. Thanks to everyone who has read, commented, sent samples, or interacted with me via Twitter. The encouragement and support has been wonderful.

On a personal level, I’ve started working in wine retail and I haven’t looked back once. There is so much to learn, and what better way was there than to immerse myself in a diverse range of wines?

I started this blog with a mere intention of keeping track of what I was drinking, then progressed to wanting to share my experiences with others. I reached a point where so-called ‘alternative’ varieties became my prime interest and decided to shift the blog’s focus towards that.

Of course, there’s still the odd Chardonnay, Shiraz or even Cabernet review on here. Those varietals will probably forever be the bread and butter of Australian wine and I can’t ignore their importance and demonstrated quality. However, what I want to do is immerse myself in the diversity of wine and publish those experiences. Australia is a massive country with such a diversity of climates. It is highly unlikely that we have found all of the best grapes for the production of wine here. Onwards and upwards.

Here are my ten favourite wines tasted this year (at least those that I’ve written about).

 

Blue Poles Reserve Merlot 2008

Some serious next-level Merlot. Blue Poles know their way around this grape. As I said in my notes, Merlot (at least in Australia) is a good variety to cut your teeth on, but like baby food, that’s usually the last time you want it. What a great exception.

 

Plantagenet Wild Riesling 2010

I blogged a fair few wines with the word ‘wild’ in the title this year, and most were actually pretty good. I like the idea of spontaneous fermentation, rather than controlled cultures being added. That said, it does take some winemaking skill to make sure things don’t get out of hand. I was surprised that wild yeasts contributed to such a good Riesling, to be honest.

 

Descendientes de José Palacios Pétalos Mencia 2009

Wonderful bright red fruits contrasted by a deep meatiness and licorice. So very drinkable. Looking forward to trying more Mencia. New Year’s Resolution?

 

Lusco Do Miño ‘Zios’ Albariño 2009

 

Another Spaniard. This caught me by surprise when I ordered a glass at Must Winebar. It’s so typically Albariño. It nails it. Retail is $29, so it’s reasonable in price. I like the label design too. It reminds me of looking at diatoms under a microscope (that might well be the intention).

 

Farr Rising Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2008

 

I think my heart stopped when I tasted this wine. Smoke and berries. Tons of complexity. Perhaps the best Pinot I’ve tasted in my limited experience.

 

Greywacke Wild Sauvignon 2009

 

Complexity and texture. So much happening. It shouldn’t even alienate Sauv Blanc drinkers like some worked SBs can. Unbelievably good.

 

Xabregas Artisan Syrah 2009

 

Yes, yes, yes. Proper Syrah. Meat, berries and pepper. Great tannins. Impressive, sexy, clever. Deserves a (cult) following.

 

Marq Wines Fiano 2011

 

I dreamt that Marq was created just to please me. Okay, I didn’t really, but it seems that way. Alt varieties, Margaret River, veteran winemaker. I’ve tasted the whole range, including the Malbec, Vermentino, Wild Chardonnay and Gamay. This was my favourite, though probably not the best. I want to see more Fiano from this region. Delicious wine.

 

Morandé Edición Limitada Carignan 2006

 

At work, we’ve had so many customers ask for Chilean wines. This surprises me every time, so much so that I’ve pestered the boss into looking at getting one or two in. Edgy and seductive. A Femme Fatale, I called it.

 

Hahndorf Hill ‘GRU’ Grüner Veltliner 2011

 

Finally, the varietal that I seem to champion more than any other because it’s my favourite. I’m so happy to see it being produced in Australia. It IS worthy of it. This one from Hahndorf Hill in Adelaide Hills was delicious. Peppery daikon radish, mineral and nashi pear sum this wine up for me.

 

There you have it. I encourage you to seek out these wines. Looking back, a few of them will be hard to find, but that’s why we invented the Internet, isn’t it?

 

Whilst we’re on Top 10 lists, here are my favourite albums of 2011.

Kurt Vile – Smoke Ring For My Halo

True Widow – As High As The Heavens

Marissa Nadler – Marissa Nadler

Grails – Deep Politics

Lisa Hannigan – Passenger

Mick Harvey – Sketches From The Book of the Dead

Pharoahe Monch – WAR

The Decemberists – The King Is Dead

Arch Enemy – Khaos Legions

Eilen Jewell – Queen of the Minor Key

Saint Clair Grüner Veltliner 2011

 

A commercial style of Grüner, if that is even possible. I think Saint Clair are playing their winemaking safe (even though it’s fermented in old oak and left on lees). At 14% alcohol, my feeling is that it was picked late (deliberately?) and fermented until mostly dry. It’s commendable to see a large winery like Saint Clair producing a wine such as this.

Loads of fruit – pawpaw, apple, peach, and oddly, a bit of grassiness. There’s a whisper of spice; mainly white pepper, though it’d be easy to miss if tasted blind. Nice texture of peach flesh, though not much acidity to clean it all up. Structurally, a bit bloated.

If you’re familiar with the grape, it’s hard to recommend, but if not, it’s the true gateway Grüner. Would be really good with brie or most Indian food. Give it to Sauv Blanc drinkers. You’ll be happy and so will they.

Average – Good

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Source: Sample