Hahndorf Hill ‘GRU’ Grüner Veltliner 2011

 

 

The second Australian Grüner that I’ve tasted (the other being two vintages of Lark Hill’s). Stoney Rise are also producing a 2011. If Lark Hill’s GV showed promise for the variety in Australia, then this release from Hahndorf Hill seals the deal.

Very attractive to smell – nashi pear, daikon radish, mineral and a gentle element of allspice and white pepper. It fools you into thinking the palate will be lean and austere, however this is far from the truth. Sure, there’s plenty of crisp acidity and minerality, but this is partnered by a fleshy texture that evokes nectarine, honeydew melon and pear. Impressive savoury length where herb and spice characters jump in and have a little floorshow. This has practically everything I want from a white wine, and a few surprises too. 

I’d like to drink this alongside a chicken salad with baby spinach and ribbons of daikon radish. Mouthwateringly good wine. Excellent – Outstanding

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Tinpot Hut Grüner Veltliner 2010

 

The third of today’s GruVee trio. I hate that term, but I appear to have used it anyway.

It smells fantastic – an array of herbs and spices. Perhaps not 11 secret herbs and spices, but there’s plenty of white pepper, along with dill, coriander seed, and even dusty, crushed salt. Funnily enough, it sort of reminds me of when I worked at KFC when I was 15 – the smell of opening the bags of seasoned flour. The salt and pepper would tickle your nose and often cause you to sneeze (yes, in a food prep area…). There’s maybe a trace of mango and pawpaw, both of which can be found on the palate. Textural – flesh and perhaps some flab. A little more than a prickle of acidity would have helped the wine, but at least it’s not forced. It finishes with a touch of lychee, and some alcohol warmth.

Overall, a good, aromatic wine that may have been let down by the ripeness of the grapes. To me, it comes across like a blend of a GV and a Gewurz/Gris. Worth a look at for $25.

 

Rated: 88 points

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Source: Retail

Franz Hirtzberger Rotes Tor Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2005

 

 

Another auction bargain. I think I got this one for $19. I was a little concerned about the age, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, especially for the price.

The most notable attribute is an aroma of earthy parsnip. It also smells of preserved or dried lemon, and rock salt flakes. There’s a bit of sulfide too, but it doesn’t ruin the wine. The wine has a buttery palate, with peach and lemon complemented by some cassia spice and a touch of honey. It shows typical Grüner fleshy texture, held in place by acid. I would say that the wine is nearing the end of its life, if you happen to be cellaring any.

One of my favourite soup recipes is made from parsnip, celeriac and spices. I think this wine would be a lovely partner for that. It’s a shame I don’t have any parsnips or I’d probably whip some up.

 

Rated: 89 points

Closure: Cork

Source: Auction

Lark Hill Grüner Veltliner 2011

 

 

The 2010 Lark Hill GV was a memorable wine, so I was very much looking forward to this subsequent release. I have tasted it alongside two others, one from Austria and the other from Marlborough, NZ. Despite a difficult vintage in the Canberra District (amongst other places), this wine is perhaps a testament to the use of biodynamic practises.

Starts off with a fair punch of green apple, perhaps too much, but it relaxes with time. I would suggest that this is a characteristic of the wine’s youth. There’s a sprinkle of white pepper and sage, a handful of bath salts, and a whiff of freshly cut celery. Thrilling, racy acidity helps to shape the wine. It’s as fleshy and textural as the 2010, but perhaps wearing a better fitting corset. A mouthful of warm spice emerges on the finish. It’s as easy to savour as it is to guzzle.

This wine will improve and grow significantly over the coming years. If you can afford to buy half a dozen and drink one bottle every year, then you should invite me around will be rewarded differently each time. Lark Hill’s GV is a class act, regardless of the fact that it’s an uncommon varietal.

 

Rated: 93 points

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Source: Sample

F.X. Pichler Federspiel Loibner Frauenweingarten Grüner Veltliner 2008

 

Don’t be put off by the long name – this a wine worth seeking out. I’m kind of in love with Grüner right now. When done well, it’s a grape with a lot going for it – texture, minerality, acidity, and plenty of interesting character. The bottle image is under cork, but this vintage was sealed under screwcap.

On opening, there was a bit of rubbery reduction which faded. It has aromas of stonefruit, mineral and an array of spices – I noted white pepper, cinnamon and cloves at different temperatures. The palate is equally as complex. There’s cucumber, parsnip, and red apples – a bit like a visit to the grocer. Tingly acidity is contrasted with some slippery palate weight. It’s dry and finishes with some citrussy notes. Don’t serve too cold – most of the action lies closer towards room temperature.

This kept well over a few days, but I wouldn’t suggest cellaring it. It retails for about $40, which is perhaps a tad steep, but nonetheless, a good experience of a quality, varietal Grüner Veltliner. Serve with a really, really nice salad. Pretty good with The Human League too…

 

Rated: 92 points

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Source: Retail  

Lark Hill Grüner Veltliner 2010

 

One of the very few Grüners being produced in Australia, which is a real shame, as it’s one of my favourite varieties. This is the first Australian example I have tasted.

 

First impressions are that it’s varietal. You get the trademark white pepper, celery and apple. Almost like a Waldorf Salad without the walnuts and mayo. That makes me want to watch Fawlty Towers again…

 

Aromas are a collision of white pepper, talc and flower nectar. It’s immediately appealing and classy. The palate is multifaceted with stonefruit, apple cider, mineral, celery and lemon curd. It has a weight and richness about it, but is undercut with mineral and tangy acidity. This is perhaps produced from riper grapes than the average Austrian GV, yet this only adds to its character.

 

Its retail price of $45 is pretty steep, but if you’re like me and enjoy experiencing and supporting alternative varieties (especially in Australia) then I’d suggest that it’s worth it. We are lucky to live in a country with such diversity of climate (which this summer has more than proven). Reap the benefits, I say. This is one of them.

 

Rated: 93 points

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Sample

Laurenz V. Friendly Grüner Veltliner 2007

Laurenz

Coming from Kamptal in Austria, this is one of three Grüners from Laurenz V. This is my first Grüner, and certainly won’t be my last.

A combination of minerality, purity and firm texture drives this wine, supported by a lovely array of aromas and flavours. Flint, white pepper and grapefruit aromas. A tight acid structure supports a firm texture, evoking pear skin, daikon radish and peach stone with an underlying minerality.

I would never get bored of this wine. It has the texture and acidity to match well with food; I would drink with muttar paneer. I’m not sure of the accuracy of my rating, since it’s my first tasting of Grüner Veltliner, but it seems to tick all the right boxes with no obvious problems.

Rating: 93 pts

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Tasted: February 2010